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Cuttings

You need the following equiptment for the reproduction of cuttings:

You need the following equiptment for the reproduction of cuttings:


 

 

 





1. Mini propagator
2. Neon glow lamp (color of light: coolwhite, cold light, blue-white)
3. Heater mat (thermostat controlled would be the best, but isn't nessecary)
4. Perlite (foamed volcanic rock)
5. Substratum (Jiffy-Pots, Pricking soil or clonetray with rockwool)
6. Root hormone
7. Scissor
8. Scalpel

Cut the branch in the way from the plant that there are 2-4 sprouts left to grow after.
The cut branch gives you 2-12 cuttings from the length. You can start immediately with
the cutting. But if you would keep the branches in some nurture solution (pH approx. 5,8-6,3 und EC
approx. 1-1,4), and fleck them with fog under light the night, then the fresh cut cuttings will grow more vital
and ruggedised. The cuttings can take nurture solution when they got their first roots anyhow.

After the first cut the branche can still sag, but they should be vital in the next morning, the leaves
should reach out for the light, when the temperature and the humidity were right.


The substratum should be prepared. Jiffys will be swelled in water, pricking soil will be filled in small turf pots and very much wetted. Rockwool is laid into water with a pH value of 5. Everytime you should use very warm water when you use the substratum,because the cut is a very big shock for the plant - and cold "feet" can kill the plant!


A cutting shoud look like a small plant with a healthy sprout top, at least one or two side sprouts and a length of approx. 8-15cm. It is recommended to lop the side sprout a little and then to remove it. But then you will have a lot of rejects and you should only do that when you have anough stuff to work with. And we know from experience that a lopped cutting won't spread roots worse when everything around is perfect.

Now the leaves that overlapped will be cropped to the right length. The cutting needs some leaves to survive, but too many leaves will cause the cutting evaporate it's residual humidity and the cutting will die of thirst. The stem should be free of leaves around 4-5cm. The remaining leaves shouldn't glue on the bottom to avoid grey mould (mildew).


Before the root hormone is used, the interface becomes still once re-cut. It is also helpful, if one on a side of the stems on a length of approx. 1-1,5cm to take the outer skin off. The cuttings powder with a small brush can best be laid on on the taken off place.
Too much powder knows the capillaries under the interface clog - a completely thin layer is perfectly sufficient!
The root hormone should not also more than 1-1,5cm over the interface rise up. Root hormone attacks the cell structure of the stems. Too much and too laid on far above, it leads to the fact that the handle bums there or dries out. Also when inserting one must make certain that the root hormone does not raise and also not remains at air.
Should above Powder to see its, absolutely with substrate cover. Root hormones, which are not the same like root complex, one differentiates between powdered, jelly or liquid hormones. Root hormones are, like the name already say, hormones; these penetrate into those Cell structure of the plant, so that it would be rooted-rub more again for education becomes lively, while root complex is nutrient for existing roots. By many Growers jelly hormones are praised again and again and favored. I must say however that powdered just as well, if not even still better works. The difference with powdered Root hormone preparations it is that one must deal more carefully with it, and also only very little by it to be used may, during with jelly only the handle points to be dived in. There it however in Germany because of in this country inadmissible contents materials no certified preparation gives, one should accept this small additional expenditure. In addition powdered root hormone preparation is longer durable, more productive and more favorable.

 


Don’t let too much time rush from the after-cut to the planting, because air could reach the stem and that could work for new mould. To avoid this you can cut again right after putting new powder on. The powder on the stem will be enough when the stem was slightly cut before.

Now spray again some water over the clones and put them in the propagator. The rest depends on the clime.
It should be as followed.




Temperatures between 22-28°C and a humidity around 90% in the first days. You can reach it due putting a heat mat under the propagator. Fill a 1-2cm thick base of perlite in the planting pot of the propagator and wet it very well. On it just put the substratum with the cuttings, close the cover and your are ready to grow.
For the next days hold the louvers of the propagator closed, but open the cover two times a day, that they plants will get enough fresh air. Through the warmth from below the water evaporates and the humidity levels up. Because of this you should pour water in it and check if the perlites are wet enough.
A thermometer is always a good deal, because in too warm rooms the temperature can reach up to 30°C, and this can slow down the root activity. To avoid this there are temperature controlled thermoters available, but they are very expensive. But when you controll your clime and keep an eye on it, it should still work without one. By the way: electronic thermometers with a digital display don't like the high humidity of the propagator, that is why you should use an analog one. But you can use a digital with an external meassure probe where the insides are outside the propagator.
This will work fine. When the leaves are again facing the light, the louvers should stay open. The substratum should not dry, but shouldn't be that wet nevertheless, it is important that oxygen reaches the fresh roots.

You can feed your cuttings from time to time with leave fertilizer or root complex solutions. But not to often, because a full feeded plant has no reason for a root activity. The cuttings should only be sprayed from above, because the breathe organs are placed below the leaves and shouldn't plugged. The best fertilizers are algae leave fertilizers, because extracted algaes can be taken by the plant easily. But algae fertilizers are organic and the can change after a time, that means that expensive nitrates can turn into baneful nitrits and damage the plant. You will get it by the smell. Fresh algae fertilizers smell like faeces, but when they changed they become an acidly stench, just the way of ammonia. So better use leave fertilizer. Always store fertilizer at a dark and cool place!
This will work on the fridge as well, but don't freeze fertilizers, because the binding potassium will turn into a chunk you cannot deal with.

As soon as the first roots are built, take care that they won't dry out. So cover free lying roots with enough perlite. But when the roots are too wet all the time and there are too many temperature changes then the fresh roots can become brown and need some time to recover themselves. These are often flowers that will be overgrown by more vital plants inside the propagator and they will die without enough light. The best way is to repot the cuttings as soon as they show roots. But this isn't possible when a big amout of cuttings are available the same time.

Fresh rooted cuttings can need some fertilizer, but the first pour of it shouldn't be over an EC value of 1,0. A few days later the EC value of 1,2 can be good. Everyone, who works without meassurements, just take the half amount of fertilizer as statet by the manufactors. In this case the root complex should be added too. It will advance the growth very much, because it won't interfere the EC value, and there won't be a over-fertilisation. When you see the first white spots at the stem, the plant can profit of it. Be always very careful with rooted cuttings, because they are very sensitive and can break very quick. Some people don't act like this, but there are ways and reasons why some plants grow better than others.

You should use a stable carton for transporting cuttings. The carton should be high enough. Put foil in the carton, then a base of perlite. Put the cuttings in it very careful, put a sheet of wet paper over it and spray leave ferzilizer on it. If you think that cuttings don't smell - you are wrong! You maybe don't smell them when you work with them. But the nose cannot smell them after a few minutes. So use a lot of duct tape and before you send the carton away, use some deodorant or hairspray on the carton.


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