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Current book review
Marihuana drinnen (Marijuana indoors) by Jorge Cervantes
This is the very bible for homegrowing. Every indoor cultivator should have one standing on his shelf. It contains everything: From the cion to the harvest - Here you find the essential and promising information, if you fancy gathering really big buds. Cultivating on stone-wool, cocos substrate, foamed clay or simply on soil, wether hydroponic or organic, every way of breeding is regarded in the book. Comprehensive descriptions about how to bring up the seedling to become a strong stock plant - Cloning the cuttings by yourself will be no longer a problem, due to the instructions. Lacks of nutrients, thrips, spider mites or other problems with breeding cions are things of the past. You will find descriptions of dutch propagators and instructions for your own growboxes. You'll find advice to metal halide lamps and metal vapor lamps like e.g. sodium lamps etc.
Udopea ranking: Recommendable!
ISBN: 3-907080-92-0 Paperback, 320 pages, 200 illustrations, 48 coloured, very considerabel and detailed. |
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You need the following equiptment for the reproduction of cuttings:
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You
need the following equiptment for the reproduction of cuttings:
1. Mini
propagator
2. Neon
glow lamp (color of light: coolwhite, cold light, blue-white)
3. Heater
mat (thermostat controlled would be the best, but isn't nessecary)
4. Perlite
(foamed volcanic
rock)
5. Substratum
(Jiffy-Pots,
Pricking
soil or clonetray
with rockwool)
6. Root
hormone
7. Scissor
8. Scalpel
Cut
the branch in the way from the plant that there are 2-4 sprouts left to
grow after.
The cut branch gives you 2-12 cuttings from the length. You can start
immediately with
the cutting. But if you would keep the branches in some nurture solution
(pH
approx. 5,8-6,3 und EC
approx. 1-1,4), and fleck them with fog under light the night, then the
fresh cut cuttings will grow more vital
and ruggedised. The cuttings can take nurture solution when they got their
first roots anyhow.
After the
first cut the branche can still sag, but they should be vital in the next
morning, the leaves
should reach out for the light, when the temperature and the humidity
were right.
The substratum
should be prepared. Jiffys will be swelled in water, pricking soil will
be filled in small turf pots and very much wetted. Rockwool is laid into
water with a pH value of 5. Everytime you should use very warm water when
you use the substratum,because
the cut is a very big shock for the plant - and cold "feet"
can kill the plant!
A cutting
shoud look like a small plant with a healthy sprout top, at least one
or two side sprouts and a length of approx. 8-15cm. It is recommended
to lop the side sprout a little and then to remove it. But then you
will have a lot of rejects and you should only do that when you have
anough stuff to work with. And we know from experience that a lopped
cutting won't spread roots worse when everything around is perfect.
Now the
leaves that overlapped will be cropped to the right length. The cutting
needs some leaves to survive, but too many leaves will cause the cutting
evaporate it's residual humidity and the cutting will die of thirst.
The stem should be free of leaves around 4-5cm. The remaining leaves
shouldn't glue on the bottom to avoid grey mould (mildew).
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Before the
root
hormone is used, the interface becomes still once re-cut. It is
also helpful, if one on a side of the stems on a length of approx. 1-1,5cm to take
the outer skin off. The cuttings powder with a small brush can best be laid on on the
taken off place.
Too much powder knows the capillaries under the interface clog - a completely
thin layer is perfectly sufficient!
The root hormone should not also more than 1-1,5cm over the interface
rise up. Root hormone attacks the cell structure of the stems.
Too much and too laid on far above, it leads to the fact that the handle
bums there or dries out. Also when inserting one must make certain that the root
hormone does not raise and also not remains at air.
Should above Powder to see its, absolutely with substrate cover. Root
hormones, which are not the same like root
complex, one differentiates between powdered, jelly or liquid
hormones. Root hormones are, like the name already say, hormones; these penetrate
into those Cell structure of the plant, so that it would
be rooted-rub more again for education becomes lively, while root complex is nutrient
for existing roots. By many Growers jelly hormones are praised again and again and favored.
I must say however that powdered just as well, if not even still better
works. The difference with powdered Root hormone preparations it is that one must deal
more carefully with it, and also
only very little by it to be used may, during with jelly only the handle points to be
dived in. There it however in Germany because of in this country inadmissible contents
materials no certified preparation gives, one should accept this small additional expenditure.
In addition powdered root hormone preparation is longer durable, more productive and more favorable.
Dont let too much time rush from the after-cut to the planting,
because air could reach the stem and that could work for new mould. To
avoid this you can cut again right after putting new powder on. The powder
on the stem will be enough when the stem was slightly cut before.
Now spray
again some water over the clones and put them in the propagator. The
rest depends on the clime.
It should be as followed.
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Temperatures
between 22-28°C and a humidity
around 90% in the first days. You can reach it due putting a heat mat
under
the propagator. Fill a 1-2cm thick base of perlite in the planting pot
of the propagator and wet it very well. On it just put the substratum
with the cuttings, close the cover and your are ready to grow.
For the next days hold the louvers of the propagator closed, but open
the cover two times a day, that they plants will get enough fresh air.
Through the warmth from below the water evaporates and the humidity levels
up. Because of this you should pour water in it and check if the perlites
are wet enough.
A thermometer is always a good deal, because in too warm rooms the temperature
can reach up to 30°C, and this can slow down the root activity. To
avoid this there are temperature controlled thermoters available, but
they are very expensive. But when you controll your clime and keep an
eye on it, it should still work without one. By the way: electronic thermometers
with a digital display don't like the high humidity of the propagator,
that is why you should use an analog one. But you can use a digital with
an external meassure probe where the insides are outside the propagator.
This will work fine. When the leaves are again facing the light, the louvers
should stay open. The substratum should not dry, but shouldn't be that
wet nevertheless, it is important that oxygen
reaches the fresh roots.
You can
feed your cuttings from time to time with leave fertilizer or root complex
solutions. But not to often, because a full feeded plant has no reason
for a root activity. The cuttings should only be sprayed from above, because
the breathe organs are placed below the leaves and shouldn't plugged.
The best fertilizers are algae leave fertilizers, because extracted algaes
can be taken by the plant easily. But algae fertilizers are organic and
the can change after a time, that means that expensive nitrates
can turn into baneful nitrits
and damage the plant. You will get it by the smell. Fresh algae fertilizers
smell like faeces, but when they changed they become an acidly stench,
just the way of ammonia. So better use leave fertilizer. Always store
fertilizer at a dark and cool place!
This will work on the fridge as well, but don't freeze fertilizers, because
the binding potassium
will turn into a chunk you cannot deal with.
As soon
as the first roots are built, take care that they won't dry out. So cover
free lying roots with enough perlite. But when the roots are too wet all
the time and there are too many temperature changes then the fresh roots
can become brown and need some time to recover themselves. These are often
flowers that will be overgrown by more vital plants inside the propagator
and they will die without enough light. The best way is to repot the cuttings
as soon as they show roots. But this isn't possible when a big amout of
cuttings are available the same time.
Fresh rooted
cuttings can need some fertilizer, but the first pour of it shouldn't
be over an EC
value of 1,0. A few days later the EC value of 1,2 can be good.
Everyone, who works without meassurements, just take the half amount of
fertilizer as statet by the manufactors. In this case the root complex
should be added too. It will advance the growth very much, because it
won't interfere the EC value, and there won't be a over-fertilisation.
When you see the first white spots at the stem, the plant can profit of
it. Be always very careful with rooted cuttings, because they are very
sensitive and can break very quick. Some people don't act like this, but
there are ways and reasons why some plants grow better than others.
You should
use a stable carton for transporting cuttings. The carton should be high
enough. Put foil in the carton, then a base of perlite. Put the cuttings
in it very careful, put a sheet of wet paper over it and spray leave ferzilizer
on it. If you think that cuttings don't smell - you are wrong! You maybe
don't smell them when you work with them. But the nose cannot smell them
after a few minutes. So use a lot of duct tape and before you send the
carton away, use some deodorant or hairspray on the carton.
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